We produced a limited number of devices and are now able to distribute those devices. If you are a developer working on related projects or want one device for your Medialab, Hackerspace, School, University or Radiostation.
Don’t hesitate to contact us (georg <at> otelo.or.at)
For the last year the OggStreamer-Project was generously supported by the “NetIdee“- Program from the Internet Foundation Austria.
This Support allowed us to push the Software of this Project to “Release Candidate 1”-Status, Release a OggStreamer-SDK and also made it possible to produce a small-series of 54 Devices.
If you are doing OpenSource / PublicDomain / OpenSourceHardware Projects which are related to the Internet and Austria, the NetIdee Project might be a way to obtain some funding – (Their yearly Calls end usually in August)
Thanks a lot NetIdee!
The final report for the OggStreamer/NetIdee Project can be downloaded here (it is in German only).
For the OggStreamer frontpanel I needed to come up with a solution to produce light-guides that direct the light from the VU-Meter, Power and On-Air LEDs. The first Idea was to use a 3D Printer and print this light-guides out of transparent PLA. But after trying to imaging how the light-guides would look like, I gave up on this Idea and developed a different process for this. Now I am using the transparent properties of Hot-Glue to act as light-guide and glue the LED-PCB in Place at the same time. The transparent Hot-Glue fills all the space of the CNC-punched holes in the aluminum front-panel. In order to produce a smooth surface I am using a glass plate.
Step 1: You will have to apply a lubricant on the glass plate to form a thin oily film so that the Hot-Glue doesn’t stick to good on the glass – which would make separating the completed assemble from the glass a pain in the a**. (Notice the broken glass plate from our attempts without lubricant!!) WARNING: You are using a glass plate, which can break and have sharp edges. So be careful and don’t apply excessive force – If your assembly got stuck on the glass plate you can use a Hot-Air-Gun to separate it, clean it and repeat the process.
Step 2: Evenly spread the lubricant – don’t wipe it of the plate, but try to produce a tiny but consistent film on the glass plate, without producing droplets.
Step 3: Fix the aluminum front-panel with office clips to the glass plate – adjust the office clips in a way so that they will help you aligning the LED-PCB.
Step 4: Wait till your Hot-Glue Gun has reached steady temperature and begin applying the Hot-Glue just over the holes of Power and OnAir LED. Remember to do this and the following steps quickly, because you only have a limited time windows to apply the LED-PCB proper.
Step 5: Do the same for the VU-Meter holes.
Step 6: Once all glue is applied gently push in the LED-PCB – So that the still liquid Hot-Glue is pushed towards the glass plate.
Step 7: The Hot-Glue is still liquid for a few seconds, you can use the time to turn around the glass plate to see if the LED-PCB is properly aligned and if needed adjust its position.
Step 8: Let the assembly cool down – if you are producing more then one unit, you can use this time to prepare the next one.
Step 9: Remove the cooled down assembly gently – you shouldn’t need to much force – as the applied lubricant forms a layer between the HotGlue and the glass. In any case be careful – you are handeling a glass plate which has the chance to break – The glass plate you see in the picture broke because we were trying to seperate the assembly from the glass plate using a screw driver.
Step 10: Now you can start installing the push button and the potentiometer – We start with the push button first. Take care not to forget about the elastics ring that comes with the push button.
Step 11: Insert the push button from the TOP side.
Step 12: Mount the Pushbutton with plastic Nut – the force of your fingers is enough to mount the plastic nut securly in place
Step 13: Insert the Potentiometer-PCB from the BOTTOM side.
Step 14: Place the washer and the Nut for the Potentiometer from the TOP Side. And gently fix it with the flat wrench.
Step 15: Press the prepared Potentiometer Knob on the the Potentiometer – You might need to use a drill (6mm) to prepare the Knob. Only push the Knob with gentle force.
Step 16: Use the corner of a Table (or something similar) to support the Potentiometer from the backside and apply a bit more force so that the Potentiometer Knob is securely mounted to the Potentiometer.
Step 17: Glue the cable of the push button according to the picture. (optional)
The final result:
Although this process works very well – you need to take into account that gluing the PCB in Place makes it a bit harder to repair or replace. You will need to use a Hot Air-Gun to separate the aluminum front-panel from the LED-PCB, further you will need a little patience to remove the glue residue. But it is definitvly doable.
We proudly announce our KiCad Conversion of the original PCAD2006 Design.
You can download it from the repo here
Note: This version was tested with KiCAD (BZR4213 GOST) – The currently available Windows-Installer from kicad-pcb.org ( KiCad_stable-2013.07.07-BZR4022_Win_full_version.exe ) is known to make Problems parsing the PCB File (Schematics works fine though).