We produced a limited number of devices and are now able to distribute those devices. If you are a developer working on related projects or want one device for your Medialab, Hackerspace, School, University or Radiostation.
Don’t hesitate to contact us (georg <at> otelo.or.at)
some weeks ago I had to exchange an OggStreamer because one channel was not working – the user Mike recorded the following video to demonstrate the problem:
If you watch the video closely you can see that the left channel is always amplifying the Audio with a very high gain – and only as he turns the gain up also the right channel appears – actually it is the right channel that is working correctly and the left has an error where it has a very high gain.
Looking at the schematics reveals that a connection error to the Potentiometer (which is in the Feedback loop) could cause such a high gain of the inverting amplifier:
So a loose connector is my first guess. My second guess would be a faulty potentiometer.
Lets take the device apart:
gently push the whole assembly (top and pcb) out of the extruded alluminium case:
A quick look around and touching cables reveals the problem:
because I had a spare contact lying around i soldered on a new contact, but elsewise I could have recycled the orignial one:
Time to put everything to gether and check if it works:
both channels work now :) success.
I just added a small but neat feature I want to include in the V1.0 of the OggStreamer firmware – it is a user interface that allows to control the optional LEDs on the right side of the device.
How it works – the main application (oggs_app) is creating a named pipe in the temporary directory, the name of the file is /tmp/userleds
so the following command will set the optional green led on
echo 1 > /tmp/userleds
you can send any parameter from 0 to 7 to /tmp/userleds. The parameter is interpreted as binary representation of the leds. 1 is the GREEN led, 2 is the YELLOW led, 4 is the RED led. 0 is all leds OFF and 7 is all leds ON
this feature unfolds its potential when you combine it with shell scripts – for example – everyone likes blinking LEDs.
while [ 1 ]; do
echo 7 > /tmp/userleds
echo 0 > / tmp/userleds
But also more useful tasks can be done, for example monitoring whether an IPAddr can be pinged.
while [ 1 ]; do
ping -c 1 $1
if [ "$?" == "1" ]; then
#ping did not succed -> display RED Led
echo 4 > /tmp/userleds
#ping did succed -> display GREEN Led
echo 1 > /tmp/userleds
it has been a while since there was an official Firmware Update for the OggStreamer – now it is time to release RC3 (maybe the last Release Candidate before V1.0)
- Working WebGUI-Firmware upload (until RC3 you had to use the Command Line Tools)
- Support for MP3 completed
- Patches for AudioDSP are now working (fixes high pitch mp3 issues, and incorrect samplerates)
- Support for DynDNS – Services like FreeDNS, DynDNS and many more
- Support for the ShoutCast (ICY) and legacy IceCast1 Protocol
- Cleaner Code for WebGUI – now using libcgi to be compliant to GPL
Where to get it:
The upload_firmware.sh script and the update-rc3.tgz can be found in the repositories if you want to update from a UNIX like environment
For windows download the updater tool here
Once you installed RC3 on your OggStreamer future updates can be done via the WebGUI ;)
I had the chance to present the OggStreamer at Medialab Prado and I was also talking about some random thoughts about OpenHardware and the Open Technology Laboratory in Austria http://otelo.or.at
(click on the image to get to the video)
Many thanks to the people at MediaLab who made this talk possible ;)
For the last year the OggStreamer-Project was generously supported by the “NetIdee“- Program from the Internet Foundation Austria.
This Support allowed us to push the Software of this Project to “Release Candidate 1”-Status, Release a OggStreamer-SDK and also made it possible to produce a small-series of 54 Devices.
If you are doing OpenSource / PublicDomain / OpenSourceHardware Projects which are related to the Internet and Austria, the NetIdee Project might be a way to obtain some funding – (Their yearly Calls end usually in August)
Thanks a lot NetIdee!
The final report for the OggStreamer/NetIdee Project can be downloaded here (it is in German only).
For the OggStreamer frontpanel I needed to come up with a solution to produce light-guides that direct the light from the VU-Meter, Power and On-Air LEDs. The first Idea was to use a 3D Printer and print this light-guides out of transparent PLA. But after trying to imaging how the light-guides would look like, I gave up on this Idea and developed a different process for this. Now I am using the transparent properties of Hot-Glue to act as light-guide and glue the LED-PCB in Place at the same time. The transparent Hot-Glue fills all the space of the CNC-punched holes in the aluminum front-panel. In order to produce a smooth surface I am using a glass plate.
Step 1: You will have to apply a lubricant on the glass plate to form a thin oily film so that the Hot-Glue doesn’t stick to good on the glass – which would make separating the completed assemble from the glass a pain in the a**. (Notice the broken glass plate from our attempts without lubricant!!) WARNING: You are using a glass plate, which can break and have sharp edges. So be careful and don’t apply excessive force – If your assembly got stuck on the glass plate you can use a Hot-Air-Gun to separate it, clean it and repeat the process.
Step 2: Evenly spread the lubricant – don’t wipe it of the plate, but try to produce a tiny but consistent film on the glass plate, without producing droplets.
Step 3: Fix the aluminum front-panel with office clips to the glass plate – adjust the office clips in a way so that they will help you aligning the LED-PCB.
Step 4: Wait till your Hot-Glue Gun has reached steady temperature and begin applying the Hot-Glue just over the holes of Power and OnAir LED. Remember to do this and the following steps quickly, because you only have a limited time windows to apply the LED-PCB proper.
Step 5: Do the same for the VU-Meter holes.
Step 6: Once all glue is applied gently push in the LED-PCB – So that the still liquid Hot-Glue is pushed towards the glass plate.
Step 7: The Hot-Glue is still liquid for a few seconds, you can use the time to turn around the glass plate to see if the LED-PCB is properly aligned and if needed adjust its position.
Step 8: Let the assembly cool down – if you are producing more then one unit, you can use this time to prepare the next one.
Step 9: Remove the cooled down assembly gently – you shouldn’t need to much force – as the applied lubricant forms a layer between the HotGlue and the glass. In any case be careful – you are handeling a glass plate which has the chance to break – The glass plate you see in the picture broke because we were trying to seperate the assembly from the glass plate using a screw driver.
Step 10: Now you can start installing the push button and the potentiometer – We start with the push button first. Take care not to forget about the elastics ring that comes with the push button.
Step 11: Insert the push button from the TOP side.
Step 12: Mount the Pushbutton with plastic Nut – the force of your fingers is enough to mount the plastic nut securly in place
Step 13: Insert the Potentiometer-PCB from the BOTTOM side.
Step 14: Place the washer and the Nut for the Potentiometer from the TOP Side. And gently fix it with the flat wrench.
Step 15: Press the prepared Potentiometer Knob on the the Potentiometer – You might need to use a drill (6mm) to prepare the Knob. Only push the Knob with gentle force.
Step 16: Use the corner of a Table (or something similar) to support the Potentiometer from the backside and apply a bit more force so that the Potentiometer Knob is securely mounted to the Potentiometer.
Step 17: Glue the cable of the push button according to the picture. (optional)
The final result:
Although this process works very well – you need to take into account that gluing the PCB in Place makes it a bit harder to repair or replace. You will need to use a Hot Air-Gun to separate the aluminum front-panel from the LED-PCB, further you will need a little patience to remove the glue residue. But it is definitvly doable.